Waiting for the first snowfall of the season? Dreaming about skiing double black diamond runs at hair-on-fire speed? Envisioning yourself making tracks on a virgin palette of deep, champagne powder?
You've caught ski fever and you need gear.
Buying ski equipment can be an overwhelming experience, especially for first-time buyers. There are skis for all terrains, all disciplines, and all types of snow. But there's no need to be paralyzed with indecision when faced with a glut of choices-most skis are remarkable multi-taskers and can be used on various terrain and snow conditions. Even so, if you select a ski appropriate to the type of skiing you do most, you're sure to be more satisfied with its performance.
We've put together this guide to help you navigate the dizzying array of choices so you can find your "ski soul mate". We've also included advice on buying bindings, boots, and poles, so you can hit the slopes with all the gear you need to fulfill your winter fantasies.
In order to find the right ski for you, you first need to determine your skiing ability and terrain preference.
Determining your skill level is one of the most important factors to consider when you buy skis. You want to invest in skis that are designed for a skill level that's slightly higher than your current ability level. Any less than that and you might be hampering your ability to advance without buying new skis. However, be careful not to buy skis that are too advanced - their design may actually hinder your performance.
Ask yourself how you're going to use your skis. Although all skis will basically work on all snow types, many are designed to either perform perfectly on specific surfaces or to offer all-around performance on many surfaces. For example, if you're planning to ski only on well-groomed runs at a ski resort, you may want to invest in a pair of carving skis. However, if you want to ski off-piste too, all-mountain skis may be best for you.
Skis specific to women are usually lighter in weight and have a softer flex than men's skis. Also, the bindings on most women's models are positioned farther forward to increase stability and make turning easier.
As you browse a selection of skis, you'll have to decipher a bewildering array of construction features and dimensions. Understanding the parts of a ski will help you make sense of it all and choose the appropriate ski for you.
Base: The material on the underside of the ski, which allows it to slide.
Camber: The slight arch of a ski when resting on a flat surface that enhances the ski's flexibility. A ski with higher camber will feel springier than one with low camber.
Core: The interior of a ski, usually made of foam or laminated wood.
Edge: The sharpened metal trim on either side of a ski's base that bites into the snow.
Flex: The amount of stiffness in a ski. A softer-flexed ski will perform better on soft, deep snow, whereas a stiff-flexed ski handles better on hard-packed snow.
Waist: The narrowest part of a ski between the tip and the tail.
Before you invest in a pair of skis, it helps to understand the specification data for each ski model. This will allow you to have a greater understanding of the ski's abilities, adequately describe the characteristics you're looking for in a ski, and match the ski's characteristics with your own skiing style.
The sidecut is the depth of the curve that runs lengthwise along a ski's edge. Generally, a deep sidecut makes for a quick-turning mogul ski, while a shallower cut makes for a broader carving ski.
Measured in meters, the turn radius is the size of the smallest turn that the ski will make when set on edge. The smaller the turn radius, the tighter you will be able to turn. This number is based on a large imaginary circle of which the sidecut curve of the ski is a small segment. The radius of this imaginary circle is related to the depth of the sidecut; the deeper the ski's sidecut, the smaller the turn radius.
A ski's sidecut dimensions are measured at the tip, the waist, and the tail of the ski. Knowing these measurements makes it easy to judge the skis' ideal uses. A ski with a moderately wide waist should be used on groomed slopes. A ski with a wider waist is meant to be used in deep powder. Skis with narrow waists will be quick-turning and ideal for moguls. Every ski Sierra Trading Post sells offers sidecut dimension measurements.
Choosing the right ski length for your ability and the terrain you'll ski is crucial. The length of your skis will not only determine how comfortable you feel on the slopes, but how well you perform. Here's a three-step guide to determining your best length:
| Weight | Approx. Ski Length |
| 130-155 lbs. | 160 cm |
| 150-175 lbs. | 167 cm |
| 170-195 lbs. | 174 cm |
| 190-215 lbs. | 181 cm |
| 215 lbs. or more | 182 cm |
| Weight | Approx. Ski Length |
| 100-125 lbs. | 145 cm |
| 120-140 lbs. | 152 cm |
| 135-155 lbs. | 160 cm |
| 150 lbs. or more | 162 cm |
| Weight | Approx. Ski Length |
| 30-40 lbs. | 80 cm |
| 40-50 lbs. | 93 cm |
| 50-60 lbs. | 100 cm |
| 60-70 lbs. | 110 cm |
| 70-85 lbs. | 120 cm |
| 90-115 lbs. | 130 cm |
| Ability Level | Add or Subtract from Ski Length |
| Beginner | -20 cm |
| Intermediate | -5 cm |
| Advanced | 0+ cm |
| Expert | +5 cm |
| Snow Conditions | Add to Ski Length |
| On-piste, groomed, hard runs | 0+ cm |
| Off-piste, soft snow, powder | +5 cm |
Note: Please be aware that sizing varies among different ski manufacturers and these size charts are only approximations to be used as guidelines.
The role of your bindings is to absorb shock, filter out vibrations, and reduce fatigue so you remain in control.
Bindings consist of toe and heel pieces, ski brakes, and anti-friction devices. The toe piece is mounted to the front of the device and releases sideways. The heel piece holds the heel of the boot in place and releases upward. Ski brakes are prongs attached under the boot to the bindings. When the binding is released during a fall, the prongs stop your skis from sliding away from you. Anti-friction devices are metal pads mounted on the ski under the forefoot that allow boots to slide easily out of the bindings.
Bindings are made with specific "DIN ranges", or tension release settings, that determine the amount of force needed to release boots from the bindings. (DIN is an acronym for the Deutsche Industrie Normen, a German organization that sets standards for binding release tensions. However, the term is generally used to refer to the release settings themselves.)
A low DIN setting means bindings will release easily, while a higher DIN setting requires more force to release. Since beginning skiers fall more frequently, a lower release tension is necessary to avoid injury.
Your body weight also influences your DIN setting. A heavier skier puts more force on bindings during a fall and thus requires a higher DIN.
The general DIN settings are:
While the type of binding you buy will most affect performance, where the binding is mounted on the ski will also make a difference. Generally, the farther back the binding is mounted, the stiffer the ski response will be. Ski manufacturers usually recommend a mounting position and a qualified ski shop will mount your bindings based on those specifications.
Because women have a different center of gravity than men, women's bindings are sometimes mounted slightly forward of center, allowing for better control.
Note: Bindings should always be mounted by a qualified ski technician.
The most important thing to remember when buying a pair of ski boots is to get a pair that fits. Also, be honest with yourself about your skiing ability. You want to find the best performing boot for you so you can be comfortable on the slopes.
There are three main ski boot styles to choose from.
Ski boots consist of an outer shell and a liner that work together to offer support. The hard plastic shell offers varying degrees of support, depending on its intended use. Softer plastics flex more easily and are more forgiving, while stiffer plastics are rigid, but give boots greater precision response. The liner, made of soft foam that can be removed from the plastic shell, helps regulate foot temperature and manage moisture. After a few uses, the liner will conform to the shape of your foot for a more custom fit.
Just as important as finding the right size boot is finding a proper-fitting boot. At first, your boots will feel snug. Don't worry, the liner will compress up to a half-size over time. With a new pair of boots your toes should just brush the end of the boot, but they shouldn't be crammed in or turned under. When you bend your knees, your heels should stay down in the boot.
Tips for trying on boots:
Don't underestimate the benefits of good ski poles. They must be strong for planting turns, lightweight so your arms don't tire, and flexible enough so they won't break during a fall.
Note: The following size chart is based on approximations that should be used only as guidelines. You may need longer or shorter poles depending on your own preferences.
With your poles upside down, grab the pole beneath the basket so that the top of your thumb touches the basket. If your elbow is at a 90-degree angle (approximately), you've found the right size. If the angle of your elbow is less than 90 degrees, you need a shorter pole. If it's more than 90 degrees, you need a longer pole.
| Height | Pole Length |
| 5'1"-5'3" | 110 cm |
| 5'4"-5'6" | 115 cm |
| 5'7"-5'9" | 120 cm |
| 5'10"-6' | 125 cm |
| 6'1"-6'3" | 130 cm |
| 6'4" or more | 135 cm |
You don't have to ski the trees to appreciate the added security a helmet provides. Helmets prevent injuries and even save lives, and new models come in all shapes and styles so you can look chic and be safe on the slopes. To find your approximate helmet size, measure around your head, just above your eyebrows.
For more information read our Helmet Guide.
