The Alpine Skiing Guide

The type of skiing you plan to do most is the biggest factor in determining the style of skis you need. Although just about any set of skis will get you from the top of the mountain to the bottom, some are much better suited for a certain niche. For example, if you're planning to ski only on groomed runs at a ski resort, a pair of recreational skis will probably get the job done. However, if you want to split your time between the slopes and sidecountry, all-mountain skis are most likely your best choice.

RECREATIONAL SKIS (ENTRY-LEVEL)

Many of the well-known ski companies, including Rossignol, Blizzard and Roxy, make recreational skis designed specifically for beginners. These skis are forgiving, easy to turn and designed for people who stay within resort boundaries. Recreational skis aren't ideal for carving at very high speeds or for more aggressive backcountry terrain.

ALL-MOUNTAIN SKIS

As the name implies, these skis adapt well to many different types of terrain, from icy, in-bounds conditions to fresh backcountry powder. Generally, these skis have a wider waist than recreational skis, but are still narrower than a full-blown powder ski. Skiers looking for the versatility to carve in bounds and sidecountry should go with an all-mountain ski.

RACING SKIS

This style of ski is easy to recognize by its narrow waist and aggressive, directional shape. Designed to carve at high speeds on hard snow, racing skis are more rigid than all-mountain skis and not recommended for recreational use or beginners.

TWIN TIP SKIS (FREESTYLE)

Twin tip skis are designed to be lightweight and highly maneuverable, which makes them excel in the terrain park. They have a more symmetrical shape than other skis and also have an upturned tip and tail (called twin tips) to make skiing backwards and landing tricks easier.

POWDER SKIS (BACKCOUNTRY)

Designed to maximize flotation in deep snow, powder skis have very little sidecut and are the widest skis available. Some modern powder skis may also have an "early rise" or rocker shape to add additional floatation in thick powder.

INTEGRATED SKIS

In the past, skis and bindings were usually sold separately and mounted by a ski technician. Over the past decade or so, integrated skis have become much more commonplace. Integrated skis are sold with bindings that are specially designed and pre-mounted to allow uninhibited flex throughout the entire length of the ski. More and more companies are offering integrated skis, including brands like Fischer, Atomic and Kastle.

A Note on Women's Skis

Skis specific to women are usually lighter in weight and have a softer flex than men's skis. Also, the bindings on most women's models are positioned farther forward to increase stability and make turning easier.

The role of bindings is to keep the boot in full contact with the ski and help absorb some of the shock and vibration. Bindings consist of toe and heel pieces, ski brakes, and anti-friction devices. The toe piece is mounted to the front of the device and releases sideways. The heel piece holds the boot heel in place and releases upward. Ski brakes are prongs attached under the boot to the bindings. When the binding is released during a fall, the prongs extend downward to stop your skis from sliding away. Anti-friction devices are metal pads mounted on the ski under the forefoot that allow boots to slide easily in and out of the bindings.

TENSION RELEASE SETTINGS (DIN)

Bindings are made with specific "DIN ranges", or tension release settings, that determine the amount of force needed to release boots from the bindings.(DIN is an acronym for the Deutsche Industrie Normen, a German organization that sets standards for binding release tensions. However, the term is generally used to refer to the release settings themselves.)

A low DIN setting means bindings will release easily, while a higher DIN setting requires more force to release. Since beginning skiers fall more frequently, a lower release tension is necessary to avoid injury.

Your body weight also influences your DIN setting. A heavier skier puts more force on bindings during a fall and thus requires a higher DIN.

The general DIN settings are:

• Beginner: 3-6
• Intermediate: 5-9
• Advanced: 6-12
• Expert: Up to 24

MOUNTING THE BINDING

While the type of binding you choose will most affect the performance, where the binding is mounted on the ski also makes a difference. Generally, the farther back the binding is mounted, the stiffer the ski response will be. Ski manufacturers usually recommend a specific mounting position and a qualified ski shop will mount your bindings based on those specifications. Of course, this is a non-issue for skis with pre-installed or "integrated" bindings.

Because women have a different center of gravity than men, women's bindings are sometimes mounted slightly forward of center, allowing for better control.

Note: Bindings should always be mounted by a qualified ski technician.

The most important thing when buying a pair of ski boots is to get a pair that fits well, so it is also important to be honest with yourself about your skiing ability. Ski boots designed for recreational skis will fit very differently than ski boots designed for racing. To begin with, there are three main styles of ski boots:

• Front-entry boots are the most common on the market. They open in the front like traditional boots and shoes, and feature buckle closures.
• Mid-entry boots open in both the front and the back for easy entry, exit and walking.
• Rear-entry boots open in the back and are designed for comfort and ease of use.

COMPONENTS

Ski boots consist of an outer shell and a liner that work together to offer support. The hard plastic shell offers varying degrees of support and "volume" depending on its intended use. Softer plastics flex more easily and are more forgiving, while stiffer plastics are rigid, but give boots greater precision response. The liner, made of soft foam that can be removed from the plastic shell, helps regulate foot temperature and manage moisture. After a few uses, the liner will conform to the shape of your foot for a more custom fit.

THE RIGHT BOOT FIT

Just as important as finding the right size boot is finding a proper-fitting boot. At first, your boots will feel snug. Don't worry, the liner will compress up to a half-size over time. With a new pair of boots your toes should just brush the end of the boot, but they shouldn't be crammed in or turned under. When you bend your knees, your heels should stay down in the boot.

Tips for trying on boots:

• Wear the same socks you'll wear skiing.
• Try your boots on in the afternoon when your feet are at their largest (feet swell over the course of the day).
• Stand and walk around in the boots for 30 minutes to see how they feel. If they don't feel quite right, they can be adapted by a ski technician through heating the shell or flattening the foam liner.
• If you're purchasing ski boots online, be sure to follow sizing recommendations closely.

Don't underestimate the benefits of good ski poles. They must be strong for planting turns, lightweight so your arms don't tire, and flexible enough so they won't break during a fall. If you enjoy spending time in the side country, you might consider a pair of adjustable ski poles from brands like LEKI or Black Diamond Equipment.

POLE SIZING GUIDE

Note: The following size chart is based on approximations that should be used only as guidelines. You may need longer or shorter poles depending on your own preferences.

With your poles upside down, grab the pole beneath the basket so that the top of your thumb touches the basket. If your elbow is at a 90-degree angle (approximately), you've found the right size. If the angle of your elbow is less than 90 degrees, you need a shorter pole. If it's more than 90 degrees, you need a longer pole.

Match your height with the corresponding pole length.

You don't have to ski the trees to appreciate the added security a helmet provides. Helmets from brands like Smith, Giro and Bern can prevent injuries and may even save lives. To find your approximate helmet size, measure around your head, just above your eyebrows. Check out our Helmet Guide for more information. You can also follow the following tips:

• Your helmet should be snug, but not tight.
• The front and back edges of the helmet shouldn't move when pushed up; if they do, tighten the straps.
• There should be little or no gap between the top of your goggles and your helmet.
• The helmet should be positioned no more than one inch above your eyebrows.