The Men's Dress Wardrobe Guide

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Lining up interviews for your first "real" job? Invited to a semi-formal affair and have nothing to wear? Either way, it's time to start building a dress wardrobe. You don't have to throw your jeans and faded tees away, but you do need to add a bit of sophistication to your collection. In the highly competitive world of business, as well as life's special occasions, you've got one shot at a great first impression. Make it count with the right dress attire and be prepared to put your best "suit" forward.

Don't stress if you're not sure where to start. Most men know as much about "fashion" and "dress" as they do about lipstick and lingerie. If "suit" is just a four-letter word as far as you're concerned, read on. Sierra Trading Post, with the help of our resident men's dress expert, makes the process of dressing for success easy. You can do it, and do it for much less than you'd think, thanks to our name-brand designer deals.

Just like building anything else, you need to start with the foundation when building a dress wardrobe. When that's finished, you're free to build upon it piece by piece. We've broken down the most important components below, so you'll know what to put at the top of your list.

Remember, dress clothing isn't meant to fit like your favorite tee shirt. It should have a fitted, yet comfortable, feel. Measure yourself following our guidelines below or get measured by a tailor to find the best fit.

Get the Best Suit for Your Buck

Price tags on dress clothing can be overwhelming, especially if you're just starting out. Keep in mind, though, that a quality suit will last much longer than one of lesser quality, not to mention it will fit, look, and feel better. Most business suits from Sierra Trading Post can be had for savings of 50% or more, which allows you to get more suit for your money. You'd rather have one incredible job offer than five mediocre ones, right? Same thing goes for suits.

Basic Dress Wardrobe Must-Haves

We've outlined the must-haves in your dress wardrobe below. Start with this recipe and work your way up after you get the job.

• One solid suit: In navy blue or dark charcoal, single breasted, and with a two or three button jacket. Three-season wool is the best fabric for an all-around suit.
• One solid blazer: In navy, medium-weight wool and with a two or three-button front.
• One pair of dress pants: Wool gabardine in dark charcoal.
• One shirt: In white with a spread collar. A spread collar does not button down and spreads wide between the points.
• One tie: Medium-width tie in a solid color and subtle (if any) pattern.

The framework of your dress wardrobe, the suit is an essential element to looking your best in any semi-formal situation. As a rule, more expensive suits incorporate more handwork which equals longer life and a more sophisticated, natural drape.

No buts about it, you should make your first suit a dark one. Charcoal gray is an acceptable choice, but navy suits are the most versatile and work extra hard for you because the jacket can double as a navy blazer. A single-breasted, navy suit in three-season wool is ideal as it can be worn for almost any occasion. One suit should certainly suffice if the extent of your dress need is interviewing or attending the occasional wedding.

Fit a suit jacket from home - measure yourself

Although many men find it easier to have a tailor take their measurements, it's not rocket science. You can easily do it at home.

Tips to Suit Yourself

• Stick with single-breasted suits while building your wardrobe and for interviewing. A double-breasted suit is more formal and should only be purchased after you've covered your basics.
• Never button the bottom button! Only button the top one or two buttons on your jacket, never the bottom one. That's just the way it is.
• To avoid bulging pockets, simply don't open them (most suits will come with their pockets sewn shut).
• Jacket sleeves should rest at the break in your wrist and reveal a half inch of your shirt cuff.
• Pleated pants or flat front pants? This is strictly personal preference. Go with what you like or what suits your physique best.
• When having your pleated pants hemmed, you'll want the hems to be cuffed. Flat front pants should have un-cuffed hems.
• Two-button or three-button jacket? Two-button jackets have a more traditional look, but both styles are common these days. Just remember to leave the bottom button undone when wearing either style.
• Center vent or side vents? Again, this is up to you. A suit jacket with a center vent imparts a more classic, conservative look, while side vents add a bit of Italian panache.
• Vents will usually come sewn together by a thread. Don't forget to cut this thread before you head out.
• Make sure it's comfortable If it doesn't feel comfortable, it probably doesn't look comfortable either. You want to be able to pick up your pen, shake hands, type a memo, reach for the phone and dip your dancing partner. But there's a fine line here. Remember, your suit is a fitted wardrobe piece. You don't want people to think you're wearing your big brother's suit.
• Add life to your suit by always hanging it in a garment bag in your closet. Leave the jacket unbuttoned to avoid stressing the threads.

Versatile and classic, the blazer is an essential element in your new dress wardrobe. A great go-to jacket, a blazer can easily be dressed up or down depending on the occasion. Keep in mind that if you have a navy suit, the jacket of that suit can double as a navy blazer.

• Blazer vs. Sport Coat. The only difference between a blazer and a sport coat is that a blazer is always solid-colored and a sport coat always has some type of pattern (stripes, checks, herringbone, etc.).
• Dress it up by wearing it with a tie and wool gabardine dress pants. This handsome look is nearly as formal as a suit.
• Dress it down by wearing it with khakis or even jeans. Match your blazer or sport coat with a sport shirt or polo shirt for a casual look that goes to lunch or an informal meeting.
• Quick Tip: Whether you're pairing your blazer with dress pants, khakis, or blue jeans, adding a white pocket square adds instant elegance and refinement to your look.

Fit a blazer or sport coat from home - measure yourself

Although many men find it easier to have a tailor take their measurements, it's not rocket science. You can easily do it at home.

Blazer and Sport Coat Size

Blazer and sport coat sizes are determined by your chest measurement. Start at the fullest part of your chest and wrap the measuring tape under your arms and around your back until you return to the starting point. A size 42 blazer or sport coat should fit if your chest measurement is 42".

Keep it Clean

Make sure your shirt is always crisp, clean and pressed. A rumpled shirt signals a disheveled lifestyle.

Don't sweat it

Wear a plain white tee shirt under your dress shirt to keep from showing perspiration. Just make sure it doesn't have Led Zeppelin's 1977 tour dates (or anything else) printed on the back of it.

Cuffs and Collars

You'll want to stick with a spread collar and button cuffs for wear with a suit. Don't wear a shirt with a button-down collar under your suit. French Cuffs can add style but are more formal.

Fit a dress shirt from home - measure yourself

A fine dress shirt should fit like it was made especially for you. To get this look, you'll buy according to your neck size and sleeve length. High-quality dress shirts don't come in small, medium, and large.

A nice pair of dress pants will come in handy in so many situations. While suit pants can double as dress pants, pants wear out quicker than jackets, so it's better to avoid this is possible. Save your suit for its intended purpose and get a pair of dress pants for dates and dinners.

Wool gabardine dress pants in dark charcoal would be an excellent choice. Charcoal is the most versatile color for dress pants. Wool gabardine is an indestructible, attractive fabric and a standard in the dress industry. In the colder months, you may prefer to wear wool flannels. Similar to wool gabardine but warmer, flannels are more substantial and have a soft-brushed feel.

Fit dress pants from home - measure yourself

Finally, the finishing touch. the piece that "ties" your whole look together. No dress wardrobe is complete without at least one tie. You'll want a subtle tie for business, but social events present the perfect opportunity for creative expression.

Go with a medium-width tie that's 3½" across at its widest point for the most versatility. If it's too skinny or too wide, you limit the types of shirts you can wear it with.

Quick Tip: The tip of the tie should fall at the top of the belt.

How to Tie Your Tie

It's not much trickier than tying your shoe, once you get the hang of it. Really. The most popular way to tie a tie is the four-in-hand knot with dimple and it goes a little something like this.

• Cross the wide end (W) over the narrow end (N), keeping W about 12 inches longer than N.
• Wrap W under N.
• Wrap W back over N, being careful not to wrap too tight.
• Pull W up behind and through the loop around your neck.
• Holding the front of the knot loosely with index finger and thumb, slide W down through front loop. As you slide W through, use your index finger behind the knot to tighten and squeeze the sides of the knot to start the dimple.
• Remove your finger from under the knot and squeeze the knot to form a tiny channel below. That is your dimple. Now tighten the knot by holding N and sliding the knot up towards your neck. Voila!

Take care of your tie by removing it the same way you tied it, in reverse. A tie cannot be washed or pressed, so proper care is essential.

Quick Tip: When storing ties in a closet or suitcase, always roll them. Hanging silk ties will destroy their shape over time.