Long lasting, aggressive shoe
Reviewed by SarahS from Fort Collins, CO on Wednesday, June 29, 2011
I've got a narrow, low volume foot with a tiny heel and this shoe is pretty much perfect. The velcro lets me adjust where I want, which is nice. These shoes lasted me for a year, then were retired to gym shoes, which is a good length of time for shoes that saw 3-5 climbing sessions a week on average. I bought another pair, and I'll need new ones soon. They are aggressive, but comfortable enough for more than one short pitch. They take a while to break in, but once they are, they fit your foot like a glove. I use tiny footholds with ease, they edge nicely, and while the heel hook bar isn't that helpful most of the time, the rubber going up so high on the back is definitely helpful for heel hooks. The toe box is almost all covered in rubber too, which makes toe cams stick a little better. Definitely not a crack shoe, too downturned and meant to fit tighter than you would want a crack shoe-toes are curled a bit. I use them for bouldering and sport routes and they are pretty much the perfect shoe for me for both of those pursuits. I wouldn't want to wear them for a long trad day, so I have a pair of old LaSportiva Nagos I use for that. Try these shoes on in a store, then come buy them from here-it's a better price. Also, they don't stretch hardly at all, maybe close to half a size, but probably less, so don't plan on them being much looser when you try them on. GREAT SHOE!
- Best Uses: Bouldering, Sport Climbs
- Describe Yourself: Avid Climber
- Pros: Aggressive, Comfortable, Great edging, Great rubber, Long Lasting, Smears well
- Sizing: Feels true to size
- Width: Feels true to width